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[Vol. 1] The size and facets of gemstones 2003/07/14by Junichiro Soejima
Can I have a heavier stone, please? Have you ever heard a customer ask this question? You have certainly heard customers inquire about larger gemstones. Why is this? What about facets? What is better for customers, a stone with more facets or one with less? The size of the stone is not a simple matter of carat weight, and to create a truly beautiful gemstone, a full understanding of the role facets play must be reached.

It is generally true that the heavier the stone, that is to say the larger the carat size, the bigger the stone. However, this is not the whole story. A stone may have a lower carat weight than another, but posses a larger crown, and a superior proportion. In this sense, the lighter is more desirable, more beautiful, than the heavier stone. Carat size is not a true indication of size: it is only one measure. Customers can be easily confused by this distinction.

The size of the stone is important, but is it true that the larger the stone the more beautiful it is? Again, the answer is generally, yes, with one important condition: the number of facets must compliment the size of a stone. For example, a stone with 58 facets of below 1.5 mm size is lifeless and lacks brilliance because each facet is too small to adequately reflect the light. This stone needs to be single cut with fewer facets (ideally eighteen). The optimum size for 58 facets is 8 mm, and for even larger stones, more beauty will be gained from employing more facets. It is vital to ensure that the full potential beauty of the gemstone is realized by using the correct number of facets in relation to the size of the gemstone.

Some sellers employ the myth that more is beautiful when talking about facets to customers. If a stone is 4.3 mm, but with a hundred facets, it may be promoted by saying that it is more difficult to cut more facets compared to, say, a traditional 58 facet round-brilliant stone so it is more beautiful and is worth more. Also, it is easy to tell customers that a heavier stone may be larger than another, lighter one, when the opposite may be true. Talking about the carat weight of a stone and trying to push more facets in these simple terms is, however, a disservice to our customers.

We must explain the real beauty of the gemstones, and that size is one of the three most important factors governing the beauty of gemstones. Interwoven with this point is that for each size there is an optimal number of facets to bring the full beauty of the stone out. If the customer understands these points clearly, he or she will realize the true beauty of the gemstones and sales will be promoted.
 
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