SUWA
CHOOSING
SIDE STONES

It is most likely that the practice of putting marquises on the sides of pear-shaped center stones, using no side stones with hearts, and combining pear-shaped side stones with marquises all resulted from trial and error. In the case of combining pear shapes and marquises, the fact that both are brilliant cuts allows the combination to succeed without a sense of incompatibility, regardless of which shape is used as the center stone or side stones.

These styles are similar in concept to that of the solitaire. Though the diamonds on either side in the rings are side stones, it is as if they are a part of the shank. They tend to be subdued, and have a quiet, calming effect. Conversely, the three-stone ring that appears on page 106 is a dynamic ring that combines the beauty of three diamonds. Although both styles use three gemstones, their conception as jewelry is completely different. It is not a matter of which style is better or worse- by understanding the difference between solitaire, side-stone, and three-stone ring styles, the task of choosing jewelry that matches one’s own lifestyle becomes easier.

Though no longer common there once was a style of ring that featured a 0.3-carat (4.4 millimeter) round diamond with 0.05-carat (2.5 millimeter) round brilliants set on either side. This style in neither a solitaire, nor a style that enhances the shank with diamonds, nor a three-stone such a large difference in the degree of brilliance cannot effectively bring out the beauty of an arrangement of diamonds. Such a piece of inferior conception that simply throws gemstones together can only be referred to as rubbish.
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